Aussie Pythons

The diamond pythons, scientifically named; Morelia spilota spilota, are large pythons that prefer cold climates, they prefer the cold probably the most out of all Australian snakes. The majority of scales on diamond pythons are usually black and this has been suggested as an adaptation of the diamond python to keep warm efficiently. They are amply found in the south eastern regions of Australia that have a very cold winter period.

Like most carpet pythons, Diamonds are moderately sized, the female pythons can grow up to two meters and the males fall short by around 30cm. The colours and patterns of diamond pythons differ among various specimens, most commonly varying from black and white to black and gold.

Captivity:

A fully mature diamond python requires ample space and a minimum enclosure size of around 50x18x18 inches is required. One enclosure should be large enough to hold two pythons, although this is rarely recommended as it can cause fighting. If the enclosure has more room than what is minimally required, the diamond pythons perform various exercises inside them, as these species are naturally active.

One problematic condition affecting diamond pythons commonly is obesity which like in man, occurs due to excessive feeding. You can stimulate your python to move around by having two distinctly different temperatures within the enclosure (which is recommended with any python, to give them a choice to thermoregulate) so that these pythons will lose weight simply by gliding in between the two regions. The two temperatures can be achieved by the use of heat lamps that are periodically and alternatively switched off to create two thermally different regions.

Providing some form of elevation for these pythons will make them feel very secure as they are naturally arboreal beings. Therefore various twigs, branches and pieces of bark can be used either for elevation or as a hiding place and generally just to make them more comfortable. The floor of the enclosure is best lined with paper, however reptile carpet, sand or any of the reptile-friendly barks or litter can also be used. Newspaper is the best, all-round substrate as it can be replaced cheaply and easily and is the most hygienic option.

A bowl made of a heavy material should be used for the purpose of providing water and must be placed in the end, opposite to which the heating apparatus is placed. Some diamond pythons will spend unusually long intervals in water at certain periods. We can usually conclude from this that the snake is preparing itself for shedding. But make sure you cross off the other causes for this, such as mites.

Diamond pythons usually require temperatures in the range of 28 -30 degrees, above which they will move seeking colder temperatures. However at night the temperature may be reduced significantly in order to stimulate its particular night time behaviors often exhibited by pythons living in natural habitats.

Diamond pythons require a large supply of vitamin D that is needed for the development of bones and general growth. In the natural habitat, the reptile obtains this vitamin by exposing itself to sun light. However when held captive this vitamin might be provided by using incandescent UVB fluorescent lights that can be bought without much difficulty from a pet store. Alternatively, supplements of Vitamin D may be mixed with their food periodically.

Feeding:

These reptiles are essentially carnivorous and in their natural habitats consume small reptiles and marsupials. However when captive, they are fed on rats and mice like most other pythons. Day old chickens may also be fed to diamond pythons and can be bought from chicken farms or breeders. Diamond pythons, that are fully mature, need to be given food once every 7-15 days. The younger ones however must be fed more often, usually about every five days until fully mature.

Breeding:

Usually, diamond pythons breed every once in three years, because in order to breed, the female python must have a body mass that is good enough to help her lay eggs successfully and to also bear the rigors of incubation and pregnancy. While in captivity, breeding might be encouraged to occur every year or other year.

Following hibernation, the female, after consuming a couple of meals will shed her skin and prepare for breeding. In natural habitats, diamond pythons mate in the months of August to October. The sexual arousal can be physically observed in the male python that will frantically pace the enclosure due to being aroused by the scent given off by the female pheromones. Breeding takes about one to one and half months, after which the male begins to lose interest in the female python. At this stage it may be safe to separate the two pythons. Some females might continue to eat until they are ready to lay their clutch of eggs. Around 65 days from the day of breeding the female will lay eggs, often numbering between 15 and 40, the average being 20. The eggs weigh 41.1g approximately and like the other members of the python family, hatch when in areas where the humidity is quite high.

This is the third installment of the Anteresia series of basic care sheets for children and beginners.

Scientifically known as Antaresia maculosa, this python species is the biggest of the Antaresia genus and tend to grow up to even five feet. As its name suggests, its body is covered with dark brown spots on a background that is a lighter shade of brown and even sometimes a light caramel colour. These spots may be connected or single and when connected they give the appearance of a wavy stripe on the snake’s body.

Like most Australian snakes, these pythons are quite versatile in their habitat selection and can live in woodlands, rocky regions, forests, rain forests and grasslands. They have also been spotted on a number of islands located in the vicinity of the Queensland coast.
Spotted pythons feed on rodents, frogs, lizards, bats and birds in the wild. However when captive, they are fed with rats and mice like most other pythons. This python species is the most kept Antaresia species, this suggests that they are easier to care for as they aren’t the cheapest or the prettiest, in my opinion.

Although the three pythons of the genus Antaresia are distinct, this distinction remains only as far as appearance and place of origin is concerned. Apart from that all three pythons, the stimsoni, childreni and the spotted python’s care sheets do not differ largely. Therefore all three Aussie pythons can be taken care of in a similar manner and under similar conditions.

This is the second installment of the Anteresia series of basic care sheets for children and beginners.

The Children’s Pythons, scientifically named Antaresia childreni, is a species of small pythons that are amply scattered in the northern parts of Australia.

This pet, might be the ideal one for a beginner, due to its usually calm nature and small size. However, and I hate to propel stereotypes against certain species’, but these snakes have been reported to be generally the most snappy of the Antaresia genus.

The name, Children’s Python, has caused many misconceptions. Most people new to the reptile world actually think they are named this because they’re good snakes for kids. Actually, the origin of the word children, in the name of this python is from the zoologist John George Children of whom the species was named after. These snakes have been observed to grow generally around three feet and have a life span of around 12-20 years, if proper care is taken. Like all reptiles, they are best bought from a reputable reptile dealer. Before you buy the snake, feel its body for any protruding lumps and check see whether the snake is able to move fluidly with a decent grip on your hand. At your first touch, a healthy python would flick its tongue out and it should also have clear and sparkling eyes and a clean and blockage-free vent.

They are best kept in a wooden enclosure, or you can even use a properly set up plastic box (click-clack) with holes for ventilation. The humidity level that needs to be maintained is about 60% and can be increased up to 70% to facilitate shedding. Adding some hides and perches to the enclosure will be quite a treat for the reptile if you make sure not to over-clutter the enclosure. These items can be bought from pet stores or made from items available at home. Be sure to maintain a temperature range of around 31-33 degrees within the enclosure.

This is the first installment of the Anteresia series of basic care sheets for children and beginners.

Stimson’s pythons were formerly considered to be Children’s pythons until they were singled out by Smith. Unlike carpet pythons, they are a small species; growing to an average length of only around one meter. Interestingly, male pythons are longer than the females, and they have around 150 teeth and are generally well behaved snakes, but can bite or nip you off when in an unfavorable mood. And like all pythons, without proper care and attention they can become quite nasty.

They are oviparous reptiles and the eggs are laid usually around 115 days from the day when the pythons first mated. Cages for pythons are readily available for purchase. They usually require a temperature range of around 23-34 degrees Celsius. A plant made of plastic or a rock or log will be a real treat for the pythons, stimulating their senses and encouraging exercise, but be careful not to clutter the enclosure. For water, use a bowl that will not tip easily so that the snake won’t spill over the water and don’t fill the bowl to its brim, just half full, preferably with spring or rain water and not tap water, as it could contain chemicals.

Since pythons need to feel secure and have a range of temperatures to keep them healthy you must ensure that your cage has both a warm and cold region. Stool must be removed whenever noticed and the substrate is best made of paper. Any kind of paper can be used, be it recycled paper, butcher paper or the most easily available; newspaper.

When buying your Stimson’s python, go for one that is clean and bright eyed. Don’t buy one just because it looks sad or is housed in inhumane conditions, you may thing you are helping the python but it will just put a lot of stress on you and you may not be able to deal with the issues that arise. It is important to buy a healthy snake so that you may raise it without any problems.

Their diet is usually made of mice and rats. If your pet python refuses a couple of meals it is not cause for any immediate alarm as this is quite normal and pythons in the wild can go months without feeding. Read up about feeding methods, they have been mentioned on this blog before.

A Darwin carpet python or M. s. variegata is the perfect reptile for the first time owner or experienced handler. These beautiful creatures can grow up to six feet in length. When a Darwin is young, they are just like any other snake. They are easily aggravated and may bite anything that they see. Most Darwin’s settle down after a few years and have an easier temperament. It is important to remember that these creatures still can be provoked at any time to bite anyone they are given the possibility to.

After bringing your Darwin carpet python home, it is important to find it a good home. One of the best containers for holding a Darwin is a glass aquarium. This aquarium is strengthened to ensure that the creature is not able to get out of it. Remember to place a strong lid on the top of the habitat to prevent escape. Many owners use a traditional lid but place heavier items such as textbooks or rocks to prevent the python from escaping. There are several guidelines that one needs to consider when trying to determine the correct size for the python’s cage. In an ideal world, the cage should be large enough that the animal is able to fully stretch out its body from tail to head without hitting either side of the cage. Many animals start off in smaller tanks but will require larger tanks as time goes on.

One end of the Darwin carpet python’s cage needs to be heated with the other one cooled. The python should be able to travel back and forth between the two with no problems. A heat lamp should be directed inward to the cage on the warm end. Ideally, the temperature will be 30 to 32 degrees on the warm end with 22 to 26 degrees at the cooler end. The python should have access to the warm heat lamp at least eight to ten hours per day. Some type of substrate needs to be situated on the bottom of the cage. Newspaper work well for a substrate material and only need to be changed once per week. They may need to be changed more often if a large amount of water spills on them or the animal defecates.

The Darwin carpet python loves to be able to soak up their environment. Rocks make a great addition because they allow the python to assist itself when in the shedding stage. Shelter is another key to the python. Household boxes can be used but should be large enough to allow the python to fit inside. A large bowl for soaking should be provided to the Darwin carpet python. The water should be filled and cleaned regularily. The snake will soak in this pool from time to time and it is important that the animal is able to fit themselves comfortabley within it. Rats are the perfect type of prey for an adult Darwin carpet python and mice as hatchlings. Depending upon the size of your python, the size of the prey item needs to change. Typically a feeding pattern of once per week is sufficent.

Bearded dragons are amazing reptilian creatures. They are some of the most sought after of any of the reptiles that are kept as pets. Breeding bearded dragons can be both a labor of love as well as a substantial business operation. While it requires a large amount of work in order to be able to breed these amazing creatures, it is all worth it once they have hatched.

Housing is one of the first concerns of any reptile owner. A glass aquarium will work well for bearded dragons but it should be noted that the lid needs to be secure. Having an aqaurium without a secure lid can lead to a large amount of problems. The bearded dragons can escape or an animal or human can get into the cage and potentially be injured. Be extremely careful in selecting the right housing when breeding bearded dragons. The enclosure should have a warm section where the temperature is kept to between 32 to 40 degrees. A tree branch or log is always a nice addition, the best substrate for a bearded dragon is simply newspaper.

Sexing a bearded dragon is the first step towards breeding them. You should lift up the dragons tail and examine the area just above the ventral opening. Male bearded dragons have hemipenal bulges on each side of their tail. Female bearded dragons do not have these features present. Consulting a central bearded dragon caresheet will allow you to learn even more about the genitalia of the male/female bearded dragon.

Breeding can start for bearded dragons as soon as they are mature enough. A healthy couple of dragons , an enclosure and a warm location for the female to lay her eggs are required for mating to begin. Many bearded dragons will follow their mating rituals with a period known as brumation. Bearded dragon brumation is similar to hibernating. A dragon will have almost no activity and simply rest for a long period of time. This period can vary and some dragons may be active for a few minutes each day and then brumate for the rest of the day. Each dragon has a different internal brumation schedule and will vary based upon the climate and other factors that they are exposed to. Brumation can be anythinhg from a day long process to six months or longer!

Bearded dragon eggs are incubated for a period of 65 to 75 days. They will best mature at 27 to 30 degrees. Once they have fully matured they begin to crack and the dragon will appear out of them within 24 hours. After the dragons have hatched from their eggs, they will begin feeding within 72 hours. Depending upon what specific bearded dragons were bred, there are some very unique combinations that can exist. These types of bearded dragons can be extremely unique and are amazing to look at. The sandfire bearded dragon breed is one of the most popular today. It is among one of the top breeds that are sold by breeders as well.